Published: 28 July 2023
Last updated: 5 March 2024
It’s not just the food, or the ingredients; the laws of kashrut indirectly affect non-food-related aspects of the kosher culinary industry.
For observant Jews, dining at a kosher restaurant is usually a comforting experience. The outing is typically free of the sorts of cautions that eating at a non-kosher establishment calls for when trying to follow the laws of kashrut: no need to scan the menu for traces of shellfish or meat, for example. And waiters also don’t need to be told about potential “allergies” (Jewish camouflage for “I can’t eat that on religious grounds”).
And yet, a meal at a kosher eatery often brings its own frustrations that cause diners to consider never returning to the premise again. Whether involving sub-par service, the food on offer, or exorbitant prices, the common experience leads to a single question: Why are so many kosher restaurants so bad?
“I think customers go to restaurants for a variety of reasons,” said food and restaurant critic Andy Hayler. “Usually, it’s a combination of things: the food, something about the service, and the ambience. At least two of those criteria—food and service—are crucial, as there are some eateries that are successful without providing a great ambience.”
Food-wise, kosher restaurants are obviously limited by the laws of kashrut. Interestingly enough, though, according to folks like Dani Klein, the founder of blog and Instagram account Yeah That’s Kosher, abiding by the culinary guidelines might end up affecting the quality of service.
In fact, Jewish and non-Jewish critics and experts alike seem to agree that tight financial margins across the entire industry coupled with the higher cost of operating a kosher establishment are the main problems plaguing kosher restaurants.
“Kosher restaurants can’t be open 365 days a year—the number is probably closer to 200-and-something because of Shabbat and all the holidays,” explained Klein. “Right off the bat, then, they are losing almost 30% of the year.”
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Illustration: Tablet magazine