Published: 18 December 2023
Last updated: 9 May 2025
How can we find a foothold against despair? Author COLUM McCANN found an answer when he met Rami and Bassam, the subjects of his book 'Apeirogon'. In this powerful article, the award-winning author describes how meeting the bereaved fathers and peacebuilders changed his life.
In the autumn of 2015, I travelled to Israel and Palestine for two weeks with a group of close friends. We visited refugee camps. We went to the houses of settlers. We were invited into Palestinian homes. We experienced Shabbat. We talked with politician in the Israeli parliament and met with members of the Palestinian Authority in Ramallah. We hung out with Palestinian rap artists and Israeli musicians and storytellers. We convened with tech entrepreneurs.
We met former soldiers who had broken the silence about their service. We walked the alleyways of south Tel Aviv. We strolled through the Old City. We visited the Holocaust museum and we walked along portions of the Wall in Bethlehem. It was an exhausting experience, exhilarating, confounding, heartrending.
A WB Yeats poem rattled around in my head: “All changed, changed, utterly changed ...”
Among our group there were a couple of writers, a few musicians, activists, a philanthropist and a student. Towards the end we were all feeling a little ragged. I tried in vain to put all the pieces together. It seemed too much to handle. Yet I have always been fond of Walt Whitman’s idea that we are large, we contain multitudes, and it struck me that it might be possible to carry contradictions and still remain standing.
Nearly everyone in our group had experienced a difficult moment over the course of the previous ten days: a meltdown, a good cry, a point of extreme anger. I hadn’t broken. I had that cocky I-can-take-it arrogance about me. I had been to Northern Ireland. I had travelled around Mexico. I had walked through Sarajevo. Nothing was going to pry open my ribcage at this stage.





