Aa
  • Read, Watch, Listen
  • TJI Series
  • Community Action
  • Events
  • Zedi
Follow us and continue the conversation
  • LinkedIn
  • Instagram
  • FaceBook
  • X
  • YouTube
Test yourself with the TJI Quiz!

Adjust size of text

Aa

Follow us and continue the conversation

  • LinkedIn
  • Instagram
  • FaceBook
  • X
  • YouTube

Your saved articles

You haven't saved any articles

What are you looking for?

Original reporting, insightful analysis and diverse views, delivered straight to your inbox

  • LinkedIn
  • Instagram
  • FaceBook
  • X
  • YouTube
Your support fuels our mission to inform, entertain and inspire.

The Jewish Independent is bound by the Standards of Practice of the Australian Press Council. If you believe the Standards may have been breached, you may approach The Jewish Independent or make a complaint to the Australian Press Council in writing at www.presscouncil.org.au. The Council may also be contacted on 1800 025 712.

  • Our Story
  • Contact us
  • Our Team
  • Support us
  • Guidelines
  • Pitch your idea
  • Republishing us
  • Community Action
  • Our Awards
  • LinkedIn
  • Instagram
  • FaceBook
  • X
  • YouTube
Aboriginal FlagTorres Strait Islanders Flag

The Jewish Independent acknowledges Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples as the Traditional Owners and Custodians of Country throughout Australia. We pay our respects to Elders past and present, and strive to honour their rich history of storytelling in our work and mission.

© The Jewish Independent 2026All Rights Reserved
Website design and development by Your Creative, MelbourneTerms & ConditionsPrivacy Policy
HomeRead, Watch, Listen
Opinion

Homelands: travelling between nations without leaving Australia

Sidra Kranz Moshinsky
Print this

Published: 7 July 2022

Last updated: 5 March 2024

SIDRA KRANZ MOSHINKSY recalls an early Zionist catchphrase as she visits Indigenous homelands in the Northern Territory

It came as a shock to many of us when the states closed their borders to each other amid COVID lockdowns. Free movement is something we take for granted and while there are differences in culture, climate, politics and some linguistic quirks (bathers/swimmers/cossies), travelling interstate generally comes easily, unlike long haul international travel.

But we also have the capacity to encounter other nations within our borders, indeed within our states and cities. Something we are being called on to address as a matter of urgent national redress is the recognition of the rights and place of our First Nations people in our constitution, polity and our national psyche. As a country, Australia has displaced, decimated and destroyed much of the fabric of these ancient nations, among the longest continually functioning in the world.

Ŋalarrk (Lonely Beach) Bawaka NT (Sidra Kranz Moshinsky)
Ŋalarrk (Lonely Beach) Bawaka NT (Sidra Kranz Moshinsky)

Recently, I had the privilege to be a guest in the Tiwi Islands and in the country and homelands of the Yolngu nation. It felt like an international journey of sorts: I needed a permit to enter and was welcomed through traditional ceremony; I didn’t speak the language; the hierarchies and power structures were different; family and kinship systems complex; the culture rich and deep in breadth and time, while the underpinning values and aspirations strong and palpable. It was a strange sensation to feel a foreigner.

Bawaka homeland is a couple of hours drive down a sandy, bumpy road from Nhulunbuy in East Arnhem Land and is on the land of the Gumatj clan. The homelands movement began in the 1970s, when family groups opted to leave the centralised mission-led townships, often near mining towns, to return to their tribal lands. Many elements were at work here: in part wanting to get away from the negative influences and social dysfunction of these places; in part to preserve language and customs and to care for country, integral to health and strength of body and spirit.

Deep attachment to land and place are simultaneously particular and universal

The beauty and remoteness of Bawaka (meaning “Unknown heaven”) are striking and I savour the rarity of both. The traditional owners welcome us with a smoking ceremony, gently touching us with leaves to ease away dark spirits. We get an introduction to the Dhuwa and Yirritja moities: everything in the Yolngu universe, from land, plants and animals to clan groups and spirit beings - in themselves indivisible - belongs to one or the other. As we sit and listen, Nike the saltwater crocodile, who was rescued as a baby and then returned to the sea, senses the family’s arrival, drifts around the rocks and comes to shore to receive some treats. We are offered a rare opportunity to swim at Ŋalarrk (Lonely Beach), close to the point where the Arafura Sea meets the Gulf of Carpentaria, with crystal clear water that can be scanned for less friendly crocs. I am happy to dive in, but only after we have cleaned it of a pile of plastic that has drifted in on currents from other parts of the world. (When we throw stuff “away”, it washes up in away places such as this.)

It was the Yolngu people of Arnhem Land who launched the land rights movements in 1963 when they sent the Bark Petition to the federal parliament objecting to the granting of mining leases on their ancestral lands. A copy of the original is on display at the arts centre in Yirrkala. Another display there is the Yirrkala Church Panels (also created in 1963) which could well be Australia’s most significant artworks of the 20th century, according to our guide, anthropologist Howard Morphy. They give visual expression to the Yolngu understanding of the universe and are recognised as one of the first times art was used to communicate sacred law and understandings in a public context.

Travel westward from Yirrkala approximately a thousand kilometres and you’ll get to the town of Kununurra in the Kimberley region. Following a reconnaissance trip by writer Melech Ravitch, this area was once touted by the Freeland League for Jewish Territorial Colonisation, led by Isaac Steinberg, as a potential autonomous region for Jews fleeing persecution in the 1930s.

Nike the baru (crocodile), Bawaka NT
Nike the baru (crocodile), Bawaka NT

A Jewish homeland here? It sheds light on our capacity for blindness and double standards, that, as Jews, we couldn’t see that this potential home was not uninhabited (or to use the now discredited legal concept, it was not terra nullius). And the scheme represents a profound disregard for the concept of homeland.

Just as in 1903 the Zionist movement wouldn’t settle for Uganda, the Kimberley region was never going to substitute for the land of Israel. “Ein li eretz acheret” / “I have no other country,” wrote Ehud Manur in his iconic song about Israel, recently quoted in its English translation by US House Speaker Nancy Pelosi to express her dismay at and yet commitment to her nation following the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe v Wade. Deep attachment to land and place are simultaneously particular and universal.

There are more than 600 homelands scattered around the Northern Territory and other parts of Australia in which the collective population oscillates from approximately 5000 to over 10,000. Like all projects, there are successes and challenges in the complex balancing of priorities between spirituality, law and lore, health, education, economics, autonomy … the list goes on. At Bukudal, another homeland, we hear from one of the senior elders, Barayuwa Mununggurra, about his community. Unfortunately, COVID’s long tentacles get to our group so we don’t get to have the extended conversations and learning that being on country might have afforded us. I promise myself that I will get back here.

Wherever we sit or step in Australia, we are on the land of First Nations. The effects of nearly 250 years of colonisation are such that in many places, including our own cities and suburbs, this is invisible to us. The Acknowledgement of Country we make may be a small gesture but need not be tokenistic if we are sentient to the layers on which we walk. Of course, a full response to the Uluru Statement from the Heart with constitutional recognition, treaty and truth-telling would get us closer to a reckoning, nation to nations. A crucial chapter in Australia’s story is being written.

Photo: Mural celebrating forty years of land rights, Yirrkala, NT (Sidra Kranz Moshinsky)

You might also like
  • ‘Israel is systemically eliminating Palestinian collective life’:  B’Tselem
    Deborah Stone
  • Antisemitism, homophobia and a radical response to both
    Dennis Altman
  • Tame apologises – but with little grace
    Deborah Stone
logomark.67a07ee3
We believe in the free flow of information

Republish our articles for free, online or in print, by using our Creative Commons licence

You might also like

    Copy of Politica Podcast Social Tiles (600 x 400 px)
    Israel Iran WarPodcastIsrael

    Politica – Israeli Politics Explained

    The Jewish Independent 1
    Jewish-diversity copy
    Feature

    The three questions that will define the Jewish future

    Shahar Burla 1
    Funeral for top military commander of Hamas’ armed wing in Gaza
    Israel Hamas WarAnalysisIsrael

    Gaza ceasefire falters as Israel and Hamas prepare for next war

    Shahar Burla 1

About the author

Sidra Kranz Moshinsky

Sidra Kranz Moshinsky

Sidra Kranz Moshinsky is a writer, researcher, educational leader and museum professional, serving as the Director and CEO at the Jewish Museum of Australia. She has worked across Jewish schools and cultural organisations throughout her professional life and is a founder of the Jewish Educators’ Network of Australia. Sidra is also a freelance contributor to various publications, such as The Jewish Independent, and celebrates Jewish life through many avenues, including by being a board member of Kehilat Kolenu.

More from the author

ReflectionArts & Culture

Between Melbourne, Warsaw and Tel Aviv, where was I at home this week?

OpinionLifestyle

When they ask about…the tooth fairy

FeatureWorld

This ambitious treasure trove could help us know our ancestors

AnalysisLifestyle

When they ask about…TikTok